Sat 26th would see me apply the third and final coat of the POR-15 anti-rust paint to the wishbones.

The rest of the day was spent removing the old exhaust system and catalyser which had deteriorated into a woeful state.  After repeated soakings in penetrating fluid, the bolts surprisingly did give way to unbolting.

The recent removal of the heater matrix had breached the coolant system - and it was also likely that the coolant hoses would be replaced in their entirety, a task which would be made easier if they could be inspected up close.  So I removed the coolant tank and the main connecting hoses to the engine block.

Returning on Sunday meant that yesterdays coat of POR-15 had had time to dry and I could now polish the holes which receive the bushes and ball joints.  Although the finish on the wishbones was dry and hardened I clamped the wishbones into the workmate lightly and inside a towel to prevent burring the coating.

Whilst giving an excellent finish even being brushed on - POR-15 does have a tendency to get everywhere.  Hence the need, now the recommended 3 coats had been applied, to polish the bush and ball joint holes.  To do this I used the Multi-tool with a combination of small wire brush and polishing stones.

This got the important bits of the wishbones from looking like this:

To looking like this:

I am presently waiting on a delivery of a set of bushes.  Once these are installed next weekend I can reuse the Eliseparts tool to insert the ball joints and that'll be the wishbones finished.

Whilst inspecting the engine bay recently I'd noticed that the clutch cable had seen better days.  Last week the replacement I'd ordered arrived - and research had shown that it was a bit of a pain to install.  Essentially Lotus conspired to design a routing from the master to slave which involves removing the dash should a change need to be made.

Essentially what one needs to do to install a new cable is to disconnect the old cable from the master at the front of the car and the slave at the rear.  One then has to remove the dash and pull the old cable through a couple of tricky angles and rubber grommets.  Once the cable is in view behind the dash the cable is at it's straightest - i.e. the run is down the side of the dash through a smooth curve along the chassis side channel and out through the rear bulkhead in the bottom left of the engine bay.

The new cable can be duck taped (allowing for a strong, smoothed over joint) to the old one - one then simply has to firmly pull the old cable through from the rear bulkhead until the new cable is visible.  At this point the tape joint can be cut and the new cable is effectively installed.

The problem I ran into is that the ends of the new cable were slightly different - and it wasn't immediately obvious which end should be at the slave and which end at the master.

Oh well...  at least the dash was off (old cable can bee seen having been pulled through the front scuttle and grommet), so the job could be finished next weekend.

Whilst on the subject of interesting design features on the Elise - the time had come to remove the old front anti-roll bar.

This should be a case of simply unbolting the old bushes and stays, removing the front undertray and dropping the bar down and out.

The lower fixing as can be seen, offers plenty of room to maneuver a size 6 hex bit on a sturdy wrench into position to extract the bolt.  The upper bolt however is in a tight channel which limits the choice of tool to a regular allen key.

A bar extension is required at first to get the bolt moving - then the ball-end can be used by hand, but at a rotation of 90 degrees at a time.  So as you can imagine, progress is slow.

In preparation of the impending suspension rebuild I needed to remove and renovate the mount where the damper attaches to the chassis.

The final job of the day (now the coolant had been purged from the system) was to remove the radiator for inspection and possible replacement with a stronger, lightweight alloy item.  Once again I found myself battling with terribly seized bolts.  Once removed it seems that at the very least I need to be considering replacing the rusted and tired looking fan.